Is there anything more frustrating than waking up on the morning of a special occasion, and being greeted with a ginormous spot? This is the bane of my life, and seems to be a pretty regular occurrence for me – over it. The good news is that I now have a system in place to tackle these dire situations, that thankfully works.
Like many of you out there, concealing is an essential step in my makeup application process; whether its to conceal the bags underneath my eyes, or the spot that desperately wants to make an appearance. Thanks to Max Factor, the first concealer was introduced to the world nearly 100 years ago. Since the launch of their Erase Concealer Stick, we’ve had a vast amount of concealing options, from creams and liquids to colour correcting. The key is to mix and match a number of concealing techniques and products to find a perfect match that perfectly conceals your problem areas. Here are a few of my favourite techniques!
All of us have woken up in the morning looking a little rough around the edges (or eyes), after one glass too many, or a crying baby, or snoring husband – and theres a number of ways of cleverly concealing your under-eye area to make it look as though all your nightly problems have disappeared.
If your problem is medium dark circles underneath the eye, simply moisturise the skin, and apply your foundation all over the face. Using your choice of concealer (no more than two shades lighter than your foundation), apply underneath the eye in a right-angled triangular shape. Using either a dampened sponge, blend out the concealer to the outer edges of the eyes and cheek bones until lines are no longer visible, and tones are blended. Set with your favourite powder, and say goodbye to your unwanted bags!
This simple technique is one I use on a day-to-day basis, not only does it take away the dark circles lurking under the eye, but it brightens the complexion of the face, making you appear fresh and healthy, and your eyes appear more awake.
In most cases, scarring, dullness, and dark circles can be concealed with generic skin-toned concealer and a dab of foundation. However, when facing deeper set discolouration or scarring on the skin, concealer and foundation just don’t cut it. Colour correcting is used to mask vibrant colours that appear on the face, by cancelling them out using another colour. But how do you know which colours to use for what purpose? Well, colour correcting is all about the basic principles of colour theory.
Instead of focussing on finding the perfectly matched skin-toned concealer, it’s better to identify the colours of which you are trying to neutralise. For example, by adding green tones to the skin, you are able to take away any redness caused by acne, scarring, broken capillaries. Similarly, orange colour corrector obliterates blue hues, which usually lie within deep-set dark circles underneath the eye area. Colour correction works by using opposite colours to conceal uneven tones that appear on the face. In short, this technique fakes flawless complexion by camouflaging imperfections.
By using colour correctors, women are able to conceal specific skin issues without having to apply full coverage foundations, which helps makeup to look more natural. After all, women work really hard to maintain beautiful skin.
Colour correcting not only corrects uneven tones, but doubles as a primer for the skin. By using colour corrector as a primer, you should not only be able to use less foundation (yay), but your foundation should appear to be smoother and silkier.
Acne and Scarring
We’ve all been there, even though half of us don’t look it – we’ve all suffered from acne and suffered the consequences of picking spots at one time or other. My technique for covering scarring is a simple one, a good concealer goes a long way, and application does the rest.
To conceal red scarring or active spots, apply concealer before applying foundation. If concealer is not the same shade as your foundation, it can highlight the problem areas instead of concealing them if applied after foundation. When applying concealer to a problem area, apply using either a dry sponge, or a clean finger. It’s best to use a dry sponge as appose to a wet sponge, as a wet sponge is used to achieve a dewy, light makeup coverage, and for concealment, full coverage is the goal! Apply the product in a dabbing motion, and don’t dab too much – there comes a point where you start taking away product as oppose to putting it on.
Remember to cleanse your applicator when moving from live spots to other live spots or clear skin – you don’t want to transfer bacteria around your face.
Once you have applied concealer, wait for the product to dry and set a little before moving on to applying your foundation, in order to avoid the concealer from sliding away from your problem areas. Apply your foundation to your problem areas in the same dabbing motion – I’d recommend using a dry sponge when applying product to your problem areas. You can use a wet sponge or a brush for the areas of your skin that you don’t wish to conceal.
Once you’ve applied your foundation, set your problem areas with powder to ensure product is set on those locations throughout the day. Allow your foundation to dry, and then move on to the rest of your makeup routine. Voilà!